The mountains were slow to show themselves as we began our paddle in heavy rain, strong wind, and much fog. The rain and winds softened on the second day but the fog lingered. The views were beautiful and mystical nonetheless. I appreciated the unique experience that the trip was but I also braced myself each night and morning to deal with the cold and dampness that seemed to be with me 24/7. The temperature was in the 50's and 60's during the day but dropped to the 40's at night. Of course there was no indoor shelter and no plumbing in the remote camp sites. We carried our shelter - plus food, garbage, and clothing - with us.
Day three was a game-changer. Until then, this was a unique experience that I was glad to try once but that was also full of discomfort (including sleeping on a bed of rocks and going to the bathroom in awkward ways and places) which made it so I was counting the days until it was over. I wondered why I hadn't considered an indoor sight-seeing tour. And then... the sun came out. Yes!
It was magic how everything changed when we warmed up and received that wonderful solar energy. Now the sea sparkled and the mountains were unveiled in full glory. And I stopped shivering, which made a big difference! It turned the week into an excellent and truly renewing vacation. And I remember uttering the words: "there is nowhere I would rather be. Thanks, God!"
I was also aware that many people, including my family and church (perhaps my mom most of all), were praying for me and Tom this week - for safety and also renewal through the sabbatical experience. I am grateful for these prayers. When locals commented throughout the remainder of the week how unusual the calm seas and full-on sunshine was for this time of year, I mentioned that there is power in prayer. If any of you reading this were part of that prayer-force, thank you!
The group with whom we traveled was jovial and worked well together. The three young guides were knowledgeable, enthusiastic, and helpful. The other kayakers included two single moms - former fisherwomen on the high Alaskan seas - and their kids (ages 10 and 15), three guys from New York City, plus Tom and me.
I was impressed with the attitude and leadership of our lead-guide, 26 year-old Dennis from western MA. I found out on day two that his uncle is none other than Paul Lindahl of Camp Calumet and that Dennis grew up going to that camp where I spend a week as chaplain each summer and where my church will be retreating for Columbus Day weekend. My buddy Knute was his counselor. How random that of all the kayak trips I could go on and of all the guides that are out there, a Calumet camper from New England would be the one to keep me alive for the last week.
After dinner last night, Dennis asked for the location of my church which is not far from his family home. When he is back in New England next fall, he plans to stop in. This world is too small, but I like it that way.
This Rocky bench on Beluga Island is where we pitched our tent for three nights. The pickings were slim, but we were just glad not to have to pack up our shelter and belongings every day. We were eager kayakers, but reluctant schleppers. The ground may have been rough, but you can't beat the view out our front door!
We made it! Morning of Day Five. Friends to the end!
On Day Two, we visited Davidson Glacier. This involved a 4-hour paddle and 4-hour hike to get there and back. Had to bundle up for the chilly winds generated by the cool
Glacier ice.
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